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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of St. Martin
Half-Dutch and half-French, the 37-square-mile island of St. Martin/Sint Maarten is a two-for-one Caribbean destination. The Dutch, or south side, is all timeshare condominiums, duty-free shops, and casinos catering to a mostly American clientele and to passengers of cruise ships that regularly dock at Philipsburg, the Dutch capital. The French northern side—and its capital, Marigot—are less developed yet more refined, and pricier for it, with the euro the currency of choice. Although English is widely spoken, locals on the north side are much more receptive to French speakers, so learn a few phrases before you visit.
Attractions & Activities Most come here for the beaches, the nightlife, the shopping, and, increasingly, the dining. Alas, the island's popularity also means that finding an uncrowded beach takes some effort. Orient Beach, in the northeast, is popular for water sports and sunbathing (especially topless or nude, both of which are acceptable here). You can land one of the chairs and umbrellas hotel guests get for free for $7 or so. To escape those crowds in varying states of undress, hop on a Jet Ski or kayak and navigate your way to Ilet Pinel. Just off the northern tip of Orient Beach, the island is little more than palm trees, sea grapes, scrub, and sand and is a great spot for snorkeling in blissful seclusion. Bring your own gear, or take a trip with the local Neptune Dive Center, which supplies masks, snorkels, and fins (neptune-dive.com; three hours, $50). Return to Orient after dark, when the beach bars become discos pumping out European house music. Located in the Terres Basses (or western lowlands) and backed by multimillion-dollar properties, Baie Longue, the longest white sand beach on the island, has no facilities, so bring food, an umbrella, and plenty of water. In the south, photographers flock to Maho Beach, at the end of the runway at Princess Juliana International Airport, just before noon to take photos of planes en route to or from New York, Paris, and Amsterdam. Drinks at Maho's Sunset Beach bar come with views of takeoffs, landings, and, once a day—as its name suggests—the sun slowly dipping beyond the horizon (2 Beacon Hill Rd.). Front Street, in Philipsburg, can get rowdy and crowded when the cruise ships dock, disgorging the shore-excursion passengers who prowl its duty-free jewelry, watch, and cosmetics shops. So arrive late in the afternoon, when the ships have left, and you'll have more elbow room—and a better chance of negotiating discounts. The scene is more refined at Le West Indies Mall, on the waterfront in Marigot, where French vacationers browse leisurely through stores offering Gallic luxury goods such as sportswear, perfume, and wine. Tuesday through Saturday, pick up impulse buys—fresh fruit, colorful sarongs, coral necklaces—at the public market on the rue de la République, near the dock for the St. Barts and Anguilla ferries. A few miles to the north of Marigot, Grand Case is worth the trip. Although tiny, this beach town at the foot of green hills claims to be the culinary capital of the Caribbean, thanks to the clutch of French-inflected restaurants along mile-long boulevard de Grand Case. When not à table, explore the boulevard's arty galleries and interesting boutiques. From the summit of Pic du Paradis, the island's highest point—located on the French side, a short drive from Marigot and Philipsburg—the panorama takes in neighboring Saba, St. Eustatius, and Anguilla. The summit is just a few minutes' walk from the parking area, but the more enjoyable way to the top is the two- to three-hour hike from Loterie Farm, a nature reserve near the base of Pic du Paradis. The farm has several miles of hiking trails that wind through the rain forest, as well as canopy tours and suspension bridges for the kids (on Route Pic Paradis; 590-87-86-16; entrance fee, $5; 90-minute guided Hidden Forest Tour, $25). Lodging La Samanna, a perennial favorite of Condé Nast Traveler readers, is an 83-room white-stucco Mediterranean-style resort on 55 acres of private beach on Baie Longue, just north of the Dutch border near the island's westernmost point. Another standout is L'Habitation Le Domaine, in Grand Case, which is actually two properties—L'Habitation, with 251 rooms, and Le Domaine, with 145—that share a beach and facilities. One of the few genuine finds on this island, the informal Hotel L'Esplanade Caraibes has just 24 rooms, lofts, and suites. All of them are oversized, with balconies facing Grand Case Bay—a magnificent indentation in the northwest coast. The interiors are full of colorful ceramic tiles, mosaic murals, and hardwood and rattan furniture. There's no restaurant, but so what. Most rooms have kitchens, and on the northern end of the beach you'll find casual shacks that serve the catch of the day and local dishes as well as a variety of restaurants, including French and creole. Nearby, other top choices line the boulevard de Grand Case. A well-priced favorite since it opened in 1996, the three-story cream-stucco Le Petit Hotel has ten good-sized rooms decorated in Moroccan style with handcrafted tiles. The ground-floor rooms are just 20 sandy steps from Grand Case Bay. There's no restaurant, but the owners stock kitchens on request. Another gem, just a few years older, the Hotel Pavillon Beach has 16 bright, airy studios and suites, some with unusual balcony kitchens, done in yellow, green, and berry fabrics, with mosquito netting for effect. The beach is the backyard here as well, but you might be lonely in the shaded lounge chairs if you don't speak some French. Dining The French town of Grand Case teems with restaurants owned and operated by French expats. Many restaurants accept an even exchange in U.S. dollars for meals priced in euros. At La Noche—opened in July 2006 and the newest on the Grand Case scene—the Fantino family, recently arrived from France, serves such Continental fare as the foie gras terrine stuffed with figs, the dry coppa sausage with creamy goat cheese and green tomato sorbet, and the roasted Chilean sea bass and creamy risotto with fresh strawberries (147 boul. de Grand Case; 590-29-72-89; entrées, $24-$32). To have your meal prepared before your eyes, stop at boulevard de France (known as Front de Mer) in Marigot and watch spiny lobster crackle on the grill. All waterfront restaurants have a grill outside but use it only at dinner (open fires are illegal during the day). Le Bistro de la Mer serves mostly fish but will also grill up a delicate duck breast with thyme and honey (590-29-03-80; entrées, $19-$50). Fans of the classic French patisserie should stop at Sarafina, in Marigot, the island's finest bakery. Arrive early for the best selection of chocolate croissants, oven-fresh doughnuts, and crusty baguettes (14 rue de l'Anguille; 590-29-73-69; pastries, $1-$5). Back roads along the island's Atlantic coast lead to a hill overlooking the Oyster Pond Marina and a delightful hotel, the French-owned Le Mississippi. Its restaurant, Le Mahogany, has an extensive à la carte dinner menu (the choice at lunch is more restricted), as well as a menu gastronomique with three separate offerings. Appetizers include foie gras; among the entrées are rosettes of Peking duck in a lavender, honey, and sherry vinaigrette, and red snapper grilled or poached and served with glazed garden vegetables. For dessert, try the chaud-froid de pommes with a pistachio cream sauce and topped with chocolate tears. Only 12 tables means that reservations are essential (590-87-33-81; entrées, $19-$28; menus gastronomiques, $35-$60). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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